Built to last in the '70s, it was time for this avocado green bathroom to see a revolution. It didn't go without a struggle.
The easy part was moving the elevator
Tile was often applied to walls made of a heavy cement/plaster that was applied over a wire mesh. Such walls are best demolished with chisels attached to hammer drills.
As part of the last remodel, a partial drop ceiling was a created using metal bars, wire mesh, and plaster. There was now a void over the shower area that would have to patch in to match the rest of the ceiling.
There was a very noticeable slant and unevenness to the floor which was most easily corrected with an entirely new section of subfloor.
This was also the most expedient way to make the requisite changes to the drain and water supply lines for the new shower.
The biggest challenge to this task was finding room for the tools
Water Lines and controls have been installed for two separate shower heads. One fixed and another handheld located closer to a future shower bench.
In order to ensure that walls were as flush and plumb as possible, strips of 3/4" plywood were screwed to the sides of existing wall studs in a uniform plane. A key step for proper placement of large foramt tiles.
Walls, Floor, Bench and Curb have been covered with a Schluter Kerdi waterproof membrane.
A dry pack mortar pan allows for the creation of custom shower creations. The Schluter system ensures it will last and be leak free!
The Schluter system can be used for tub surrounds as well.
Homeowner found the medicine cabinet she wanted online, but it wouldn't fit the existing space. So I fabricated one that would.
Creating a rough opening in a lath and plaster wall is simply not as easy to accomlish as it would be with drywall.
Client wanted a combination of Wainscot panels with tiles above. These had to coordinate with the existing door and window trim.
The panels were fabricated off-site as a unit and then glued to the plaster walls. Attaching to the walls with finish nails would have been impossible.
Adjacent to this bath was an elevator shaft. Lowering that elevator made it easy to run updated electric through the shaft into the basement.
An inline duct fan was also installed in that shaft and connected via flex duct to a vent in the shower. Much more efficient and quieter.
The original wall mounted heater was replaced with a toe-kick heater under the vanity.
With many new projects, all things seem possible at the outset, but early enthusiasm is often curbed with pragmatic realities. This is especially true if upkeep and maintenance have been neglected for decades. Combine this with bastardizing alterations and you will be glad for deep pockets.
Prior Proper Planning Prevents Potential Problems
Requiring numerous structural upgrades, the upper floors were taken back to four brick walls and rebuilt entirely to create a unique owner's loft above a 1st floor retail space.
The original switchback style stairs were only 30" wide which make it difficult to carry items up and down them.
They require a smaller footprint for their run, but the overall width of the stair tower is 5' wide.
These will be removed and replaced with straight stairs 48" wide.
LVL beams were used to extend the 2nd floor joists one foot into the area where switchback stairs used to be. They also provide level support for the new 3rd floor master bath.
The original bannister did not meet current graspability codes as a handrail, but were repurposed as part of the guardrails at stair landings.
The new stairs were custom made offsite with the stringers and skirt boards cut on a CNC machine for precise fit of oak treads and pine risers.
Roughly 4 tons of plaster was suspended from the underside of the original flat roof beams. The center roof beams had rotted to dust over time as a result of leaks in a hidden 5'x5' skylight.
The roof decking was now supporting the beams below rather than the other way around. The 3rd floor walls, removed by the previous owner, could no longer act as load bearing.
One heavy snow on this roof, could bring it all down. The old beams were too bowed to sister on new ones. Solution was to add create an attic floor made of TJI joists with kne walls to support the roof strcture.
Whether it's for a remodel or part of a plumbing repair, key structural elements are often damaged.
The furthest joist in this pic was sheared to noting to make way for the cast iron stack. The next two notched for a cast iron tub. My tubs full of water...LOOK OUT Below!
Whenever possible, document the mechanicals with photos. They prove invaluable should a problem arise in the future.
Not only are the ceiling coffers stylish, they also serve as a chase for the lineset connecting the 3rd floor HVAC unit to the outside unit.
They also made taping the drywall butt seams unnecessary as the drywall was laid out so that these seams would be covered by the coffers.
Spray foam insulation was used rather than fiberglass batts for several reasons. Foam has a higher R-value. Spray foam installs easily around wiring easily whereas batts dos not. By necessity, the stud bays were not on 16" or 24" centers.
There was no room the above existing ceiling to add more insulation and not enough room below to drop the ceiling. Rigid foam panels were added along with furring strips placed to anchor future tin ceiling panels
EMT conduit was used to facilitate running wiring through challenging locations and for the ability to make 90 degree angles on the ceiling.
A Schluter Ditra heated floor took care of the cold tile floor.
Unsightly Hard plaster on brick was covered with lath and drywall. A cosmetic fix that not only hid the unsightly plaster, but also the water that infiltrated from the outside and eventually destroyed the plaster and the ends of the floor joists.
New timber was sistered onto existing joists and supported by a new beam above a cinderblock retaining wall in the basement. Before correction the floor sloped 6" from front to back.
New framing was added to the walls and a new PVC drain pipe installed . Rock wool and fire blocking foam was used to properly fireblock floor and ceiling penetrations.
A steel I-Beam that supported the 2nd floor rear brick wall was supported by little more than 1/2 of a cracked brick on the outside. Most of the 1st brick below it had either disintegrated or were removed for a door install. A structural engineer was hired to design a new load bearing assembly suitable for the I-beam and the doorway.
Quad Pressure Treated 2x8's and piece of steel angle iron made up the new lintel which was then supported by 2x8 jambs and reconstructed brick walls.
The original kitchen cabinets were attached to drywall over lath attached directly to hard plaster on brick. Water infiltrating from the outside destroyed the interior plaster, brick and drywall to such an extend that the brick was totally bare once the cabinets were removed.
- All new floor assembly, subfloor, and floor covering.
- Reconstructed exterior wall and door lintel.
- New drywall ceiling and walls.
- Upgraded plumbing and electric,
- All new cabinetry.
A tub surround was placed over an existing window. Once removed, black mold and extensive wood and brick deterioration were exposed.
The bath floor was cut open several times to make repairs. The subfloor patches were placed with no joist support below. The tub itself was supported by a single compromised 2x4. Entire floor assembly was replaced and replumbed for new configuration
As bathrooms are naturally humid, restoring the original plaster directly on the brick was the best option. The window was pulled and had brick and woodwork restored.
WIth all restored walls, new ceiling, proper bath fan, rebuilt floor, relocated radiator, and all new plumbing, this was not a bandaid repair.
The new tub surround was applied directly to the hard plaster walls with the minimal void behind it well sealed.
Determining the total rise needed to reach the roof wasn't possible until the roof top opening was cut. Once determined, there was insufficient run for a straight run. Even with a landing, an L-shape stair case still lacked sufficient run.
Adding a single step landing and raising the garden door was the solution. The higher door sill also helped to keep torrential rain from entering the garage floor.
A frame made of pressure treated lumber was wrapped with 5/4 cedar boards. 2x10 Cedar Beams were then attached to form a raised chevron pergola.
Each birdsmouth required a custom cut. Joist hangers and custom made brackets were powder coated to match the metal railing.
The new larger space added more light with a second window and allowed for both a shower and a clawfoot tub. Access was now possible from both the hallway and the master bedroom.
